Katyusha - Alan 1/35
Reklama
Reklama
This post has not been translated to English yet. Please use the TRANSLATE button above to see machine translation of this post.
: dík. 
Jiri K: it is quite difficult to describe what I have ever done, if I have to remember after some time, but I will try.
1. green Humbrol 117 (I tried a bit of "postshading" with darker green on the peas, but it's not visible)
2. gloss acrylic varnish (I think Balacryl)
3. Mig's runes and turpentine spread - white, ochre, Payne's grey and umber natural (but it's better on a matt surface. It's "Spanish school" but it worked well for me (sorry bitax
)
4. wash with umber natural (local - spars, around the step, etc.)
5. light drybrush (H117 + Neapolitan gold - light)
6. metal rubbing (chipping) - Revel 84 (dark brown) or Revel 9 (anthracite - dark grey) with a sharp brush or wig
7. shaded joint (around the hinge, etc.) - natural umber - washed with turpentine
8. darkened rust - sienna burnt - washed with turpentine
9. freshly beaten or peeled metal paint - grated hard (2B) - finger
10. humbrol matt varnish (to make the model more matt on the top than on the side)
11. scratches (into the paint) with a spatula (basically just breaks the uniform surface - matt)
12. dusting - heavily made Humbrol 72
the underside of the model is sprayed with R84 (dark brown) including the wheels (as a base) and on it are gradually "patched" and sprayed various remnants of brown shades, including remnants of washes, etc.
I also "sanded" the underside with crushed H29 using an old toothbrush. I tried it for the first time and it looks pretty good.
I must have forgotten something, but hopefully this will help.
1. green Humbrol 117 (I tried a bit of "postshading" with darker green on the peas, but it's not visible)
2. gloss acrylic varnish (I think Balacryl)
3. Mig's runes and turpentine spread - white, ochre, Payne's grey and umber natural (but it's better on a matt surface. It's "Spanish school" but it worked well for me (sorry bitax
)4. wash with umber natural (local - spars, around the step, etc.)
5. light drybrush (H117 + Neapolitan gold - light)
6. metal rubbing (chipping) - Revel 84 (dark brown) or Revel 9 (anthracite - dark grey) with a sharp brush or wig
7. shaded joint (around the hinge, etc.) - natural umber - washed with turpentine
8. darkened rust - sienna burnt - washed with turpentine
9. freshly beaten or peeled metal paint - grated hard (2B) - finger
10. humbrol matt varnish (to make the model more matt on the top than on the side)
11. scratches (into the paint) with a spatula (basically just breaks the uniform surface - matt)
12. dusting - heavily made Humbrol 72
the underside of the model is sprayed with R84 (dark brown) including the wheels (as a base) and on it are gradually "patched" and sprayed various remnants of brown shades, including remnants of washes, etc.
I also "sanded" the underside with crushed H29 using an old toothbrush. I tried it for the first time and it looks pretty good.
I must have forgotten something, but hopefully this will help.
This post has not been translated to English yet. Please use the TRANSLATE button above to see machine translation of this post.
.Tedy: Proc ta priserna traskripce "Katyusha", kdyz se muze krasne cesky ( = slovansky a presneji) napsat "Kaťuša" ?
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navíc bez toho že by uvažoval že třeba nerez na svárech nedokáže zreznout. Proto to že používáš technologii je fajn a že ses neinspiroval tím že auto po roce provozu vypadá jako po třiceti letech někde na pomníku je ještě lepší Právě to se mi líbí že tak jak jsi to udělal to vypadat mohlo. Právě tady je rozdíl mezi španělskou školou patiny a technologií španělské školy
This post has not been translated to English yet. Please use the TRANSLATE button above to see machine translation of this post.
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